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Archive for the tag “French Wine Society”

Coming Up: Colmar!

Colmar, Alsace

Colmar, Alsace, is also nicknamed “Little Venice.”

We’re getting too excited about Vino Hound’s first international food & wine tour, Germany/Alsace! Day 1 is the impossibly quaint town of Colmar in Alsace, France – the “capital of Alsatian wine.”  With its impeccably preserved old town and notable architecture, Colmar is a feast for the eyes – and the stomach.  Alsace has been traded between France and Germany seven times, so its food and wine traditions are a delicious blend of both.  With our partners, Vines to Wine Academy and Taste and Savor, we’ll hit the cobblestone streets for a walking tour before settling into a farm-to-table feast  – with wine pairings, of course – prepared by a local husband/wife chef team focused on modern renditions of Alsatian favorites.  Our guests should look forward to Alsatian Cremant, Riesling and Pinot Noir with our first dinner – a delightful start to the week!

Alsace2

More cuteness in Colmar.

Aliens in the Vineyard

My ringtone is set to R2-D2’s whistle, and I love a good dose of sci-fi.  The intergalatically-delicious wines from the Rhone Valley of France are another obsession.  Idiosyncratic California wine maker Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards (you’ve gotta read his erratic, erudite prose to believe it) and his wines have long been on my radar.

SOOOOO, HOW DID I MISS THE ALIEN WINES?

Keith Farmer of Brookhaven Wines in Atlanta saved me, Luke-Skywalker-style, from my Black Hole of Ignorance by spinning this tale…

It was the 1950’s, the dark days of the Cold War, and France was gripped by a rash of UFO sightings – cigar-shaped UFO’s to be precise: “Cigare Volant.”  Media coverage was thick, and citizens nationwide were nervous.

Cigar Volant exhaust

The author & friends in CDP, fighting a gust of the Mistral; or was it Cigar Volant exhaust?

BDV logo color 0.5in

Bonny Doon’s interpretation of the Cigar Volant.

Leadership of the town and wine region of Chateauneuf-du-pape showed little concern for their citizenry, but were trés worried about their exquisite wines and vineyards.  (These wines, which today still emboss the papal regalia on their bottles, came to international acclaim in the 1300’s, during the 70 years of the Avignon Papacy.  Their popularity shows no sign of waning, especially in my house.)

The Mayor of Chateauneuf-du-pape proactively banned these “Cigare Volant” from landing in their vineyards – a publicity-grabbing decree that was reprinted in several French papers… News clip in the Le Haut-Marnais Républicain, of Chaumont, France, 1954, translated to read:

FLYING SAUCERS!

  1. Mayor does not joke around, therefore the “saucers or cigars” landing in Chateauneuf-du-Pape will be held in custody if the rural policeman catches them
  2. — Mr. Lucien Jeune, mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has just taken the following decree which was approved by the prefect for the Vaucluse and was made executory:

The Mayor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape decrees:

Article 1. — The overflight, the landing and the takeoff of aircraft known as flying saucers or flying cigars, whatever their nationality is, are prohibited on the territory of the community.

Article 2. — Any aircraft, known as flying saucer or flying cigar, which should land on the territory of the community will be immediately held in custody.

Article 3. — The forest officer and the city policeman are in charge, each one in what relates to him, of the execution of this decree.”

To the best I can discern, the law is still on the books – and seems to be working.

Vin Gris De Cigare

With or without the spaceship, this rose is tasty.

Decades later, Bonny Doon developed a family of Rhone-inspired wines, naming them the Cigare Wines in homage to those cigar-shaped craft.  Lucky for me, Keith was pouring their amazing rosé, Vin Gris de Cigare at a Vine & Tap tasting, while the above story unfolded.  Sure enough, there’s even a spaceship on the label.

Aliens aside, this is one of my favorite rosés to date – and it’s well-documented how much I love rosé.  Great balance of fruit, mineral and savory notes, with no sweetness; take this otherworldly interloper hope this summer and enjoy him with whatever comes off the grill.  Or with a cigar.

Bring on the Beaujolais!

No surprise, the most common question I field after tasting 100-ish wines at something like the Society of Wine Educator’s conference: What were your faves? Believe or not, a few stunners really do shine in my memory. Over the next couple of days, I’ll quickly highlight them here…

Stunner #2: Georges Duboeuf Julienas Chateau des Capitans, Beaujolais, France ($17-$20)

We were lucky, lucky indeed to breakfast with the godfather of Beaujolais, Georges Duboeuf himself, at the Society of Wine Educators conference.  Well, breakfast in the sense that 6 glasses of Beaujolais constitute breakfast, but anyway…

Breakfast Beaujolais with Duboeuf!

Breakfast Beaujolais with Duboeuf!

Mr. Dubeouf’s wines are practically synonymous with Beaujolais; check out the “France” section in your wine shop, almost guaranteed you’ll see ’em.

Chateau des Capitans, Julienas

Juicy Julienas

The stand out Breakfast Beaujolais he poured was the Julienas Chateau des Capitans. It is rich and perfumed with roasted coffee on the nose and a lush blackberry and pepper palate.  The texture is chewy and full.  This would be great wine with grilled poultry or maybe even pizza and pasta.  At under $20, it’s a steal.

Time to Geek Out – Bit o’ Background on Beaujolais:  This French wine region is located just below Burgundy, kinda the east side of France.  99% of the wines are red, made from the Gamay grape, and are typically light bodied and fruity.  If you’ve had a Beaujolais and been disappointed, try again and look for the word “Cru” on the label.  In short, this means the wine came from one of 10 specific areas inside Beaujolais, and are held to higher production standards. They rock.   And they are often a great value.

Just to make you crazy, you typically won’t see “Beaujolais” on the label, but rather the name of the Cru: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly or Côte de Brouilly.  Don’t ask me why, it’s a French thing.  But do ask your wine shop to point you in the right direction; wine geeks can get pretty nerdy about Cru Beaujolais, for good reason.Beaujolais_SMALL-MAP

Ummm, remind me why we’re here?

“And we’ll serve French wine!”

The twinkling lights of the Eiffel tower still in our eyes, and my new engagement ring sparkling on my finger, we were fresh off the plane from Paris and already planning our French-themed engagement party in Atlanta.  The food was easy but the beverage…hmmm.   Our nascent wine knowledge leaned heavily towards the usual Californian suspects, supplemented by the occasional cheap-but-a-nice-change-of-pace Rioja, and most easily found at Kroger.

Armed only with a French wine class four years past, we trouped to the local wine shop known for its French imports.  Our demands were minimal: French, red, affordable, party wine. Help?

Though the words on the label meant nothing to us then, we left with several cases of a 2000 Cote de Bourg.  Fast-forward 10 years, and I now know that’s a none-too-sexy but fine, Right Bank Bordeaux AOC producing Merlot-based wine.  Not that the wines are bad, mind you, but these are fruity bottles meant to be enjoyed young – as compared to a bad-assed, multi-Benjamin Paulliac (Left Bank Bordeaux) that needs 10-12 years before you even consider yanking that cork.

But our little wine came recommended by the patient manager, had the requisite amount of French on the label to complement our party aesthetic, and boasted a friendly name, Chateau Robert  – promptly renamed Bob.

We loved Bob.  He had a tad of that yummy Bordeaux stink (excuse me, “earthiness on the nose”) and indeed, lots of fruit.  Bob was a smoothie.  And, since our engagement party attendees leaned more towards Bud than Bordeaux, left-over Bob made lots of friends at subsequent parties and dinners.  You could take Bob anywhere.

Amateur appreciators that we were then, we didn’t realize Bordeaux already played a role in our love story. The fateful April night in Paris that culminated in all that sparkling, we dined at a quietly posh yet warmly welcoming restaurant in the shadow of the Eiffel.  The prix fix menu was priced, well, Parisian, with a wine list to match.  My fiancé-soon -to-be chose a value-priced Chateau Pitray, and when it arrived, paused.  Shit.  Surely he’d missed a zero on the price – it was delicious. Screw it, he thought, you only propose once or so.

But no, the low price was right. When we gushed about the wine, the proprietor explained that chateau was no more, the restaurant had bought the last of their production, so no, we wouldn’t find it at home.  Pity about that Pitray.

Fast-forward with me again about 10 years. Last month I attended a 2009 Bordeaux tasting with my wine school buddies.  Rationalizing tasting 37 reds in the middle of the day as perfect preparation for our upcoming Bordeaux Master Exam, we got to swirling and spitting.

There were the silky Margaux’s, the approachable Saint Julien’s, the chocolate-covered punch of the Pauillacs and – I swear – a Second Growth from Cos d’Estournel that tasted like money. Big and roasted and toasted, it was the wine equivalent of a Russian oligarch, holding court on his mega-yacht in Monaco.  Damn.

But I didn’t go home with the Russian, soave as he may be.  No, tucked on the “starter table” of wines under $20, was Chateau Pitray!  Peppery and fruity and easy to quaff – Pitray didn’t take me to the yacht in Monaco, or even Lake Lanier, but it did take me back to that sparkly April night, and that’s more than enough for me.

And that’s why I want to write about wine, that’s why we’re here: it’s not the big-breasted, collagen-lipped, rich-and-famous wines that make most of us – ok, me –  happy.  It’s the tasty juice at a comfortable price that becomes a priceless part of our sensory memories. And in the end, making memories is where it’s at.

Oh, and Bob?  In March, we dusted Bob off and carted him to dinner to celebrate the 9th anniversary of that engagement party.  The waiter raised an eyebrow; this little guy will surely be dead, he offered?  But Bob is a party animal, and with a little air and patience, Bob woke up and celebrated with us.  Even at only $10 a bottle, you can’t keep a good man down.

Anniversary Dinner at Rathbuns with Chateau Robert

The author bubbling, while Bob (in the foreground) gets his groove on.

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